water well drilling opinions needed

don said:

Have you made your own rig before? My plan was to make the couplers myself if the threads on the pipe were inadequate. Drilling results in my part of Texas has potable water in the 100-140 foot range. I have sand and clay ground. Most reports say the same about the surrounding wells. Thanks

Goto tongshun to know more.

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No, but I did collect a lot of parts to build one, all still back at the yard in SM, maybe some day I'll revisit that project, maybe. My plan was to mount a triple stage forklift mast on the back of a truck, with hyd rams to lay it down in transport. For drill stem I was going to use real drill stem, but cut and rewelded in 8' maybe 10' lengths, the leftovers would be used for fence posts. I did drill 2 starter holes, one by warehouse, another by house, I forget 10' maybe 12' deep, sleeved with 12" pvc. From the people I talked to, all said it would most likely not be potable due to ag chemicals and septic systems in the area, my main concern was water for warehouse so we could have a sink and flush toilet, not to drink. Warehouse is rented, tenant pays the water bill, and within the next 10 years it will all be bulldozed for a strip center,mall, who knows what, so I'm not worried about it anymore.

Some of the small rigs use npt threaded pipe, might be ok in sand, your mileage may vary in Houston black gumbo clay, or gravel if you can hit it.

No, but I did collect a lot of parts to build one, all still back at the yard in SM, maybe some day I'll revisit that project, maybe. My plan was to mount a triple stage forklift mast on the back of a truck, with hyd rams to lay it down in transport. For drill stem I was going to use real drill stem, but cut and rewelded in 8' maybe 10' lengths, the leftovers would be used for fence posts. I did drill 2 starter holes, one by warehouse, another by house, I forget 10' maybe 12' deep, sleeved with 12" pvc. From the people I talked to, all said it would most likely not be potable due to ag chemicals and septic systems in the area, my main concern was water for warehouse so we could have a sink and flush toilet, not to drink. Warehouse is rented, tenant pays the water bill, and within the next 10 years it will all be bulldozed for a strip center,mall, who knows what, so I'm not worried about it anymore.Some of the small rigs use npt threaded pipe, might be ok in sand, your mileage may vary in Houston black gumbo clay, or gravel if you can hit it.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Threaded Water Well Drill Pipe.

We always use 1-1/4" standard galvanized steel pipe in 5' joints (with standard pipe threads) when hand-driving a well. We typically put down "3 joints and a point". The longer the point the better in my opinion (of 3', 4' or 5' choices).
A shallow well with a surface shallow well pump should have no more than 25' between the end of the point and the pump. Use a check valve on the suction side of the pump to hold the prime since you won't have a foot valve.
We use a heavy-duty Schedule 80 black iron coupling tightened on as tight as we can get it to drive with. The Schedule 80 coupling is then removed, then we wrap about 3-4 flat turns of teflon tape clockwise only on the male threads of the pipe as the threaded end faces you and tighten a standard galvanized coupling on as tight as we can get it. You will need a back-up wrench to hold the pipe as you tighten the couplings and additional joints on.
After we get the 3 joints and the point driven, we then use a pitcher pump to hand pump off the sand out of the well until it runs fairly clean before hooking it up to the electric pump. I use 1-1/4" PVC white plastic from a plugged galvanized T off of the top of the last pipe joint to the pump.
If you need to know how to prime a pump, I'll be glad to go into that for you, too.
Do not install a well within 100' of any part of a septic system BTW.
I've helped drive enough wells in my day for myself and friends that I know that I won't do it any more (aged out). LOL
Good Luck!
Mike

 

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