Edgebander Options

Cabinetmakers discuss the advantages of different edgebanding materials and equipment. September 21,

View Details

Question
I am wondering about the small hot air tabletop edgebanders. We build face frame cabinets and for the most part only band shelf edges. We currently use a household iron. I see they are only a few hundred dollars. If they are worth it, what is a good brand to get? Any help is appreciated.

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor B:
Sure, they are two or three times faster than using an iron. They can't do PVC, and melamine edgebanding isn't the greatest, but the can apply real wood edging.

From contributor A:
We are a small face frame shop as well. I recently picked up a table top edgebander from Woodworkers Supply. It's a nice tool for just over $200. The tape guides are better than the Freud. I bought it for the sole purpose of applying pre-finished tape for shelves and it works great.

From contributor S:
The pre-glued edgebanding is a polyester material or real wood. Hot air melts the pre-glued side just as an iron does. PVC edgebanding is not pre-glued. This type of edgebanding that comes in different thicknesses is used with the nicer edgebanders with glue pots. However you can purchase a PVC peel and stick egdgebanding. I have not been too impressed with the quality of the adhesive used with the peel and stick, and it can also be expensive.

From contributor F:
Pre-glued PVC is available, but has a short shelf life. PVC also distorts if the machine uses hot bar technology and has a memory that the smaller machines are really not able to deal with successfully. The best results from tabletop machines are with pre-glued polyester or melamine and wood veneer edging.

From contributor H:
Don't beat yourself up - if this is the only edge banding you do, I would suggest buying plastic snap-on &#; it&#;s very durable and fast. I buy it from Charles McMurray Co. comes in 12' lengths cost less than 20 cents/foot. P400-34TAN comes in white, tan and walnut

From contributor B:
Years ago I used a hot air edgebander and melamine tape. I thought it was pretty good - until I popped for a real edgebander and started using PVC. Compared to PVC, melamine banding seemed ridiculously brittle and easy to chip. Then I discovered 1mm PVC (instead of the standard .5mm stuff) &#; wow. 1mm PVC is the bomb works very well. It is very durable and has that look of quality customers can see.

From contributor J:
I wouldn&#;t suggest spending your money on one of the tabletop edgebanders. They never saved me any time over a good vice, iron, wood block, trimmers and sanding block. The big problem is they don't trim the stuff and they require too much set-up and adjustment. Stay small or go big.

From contributor D:
I recently purchased the Freud table top edgebander and found it to be quicker than the iron. I am just starting to build boxes at home and found the quality of the pre-glued edgebanding I have used so far to be poor. The edgebander has worked great, but the melamine material does chip easily on the ends. This is not from the machine, but from handling the boards before trimming. For shelves I find the table top to be great. For box edging it is fair and for door edging it is poor. I am still trying out new methods and material. I have not tried the wood material yet.

The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

We are a small face frame shop as well. I recently picked up a table top edgebander from Woodworkers Supply. It's a nice tool for just over $200. The tape guides are better than the Freud. I bought it for the sole purpose of applying pre-finished tape for shelves and it works great.The pre-glued edgebanding is a polyester material or real wood. Hot air melts the pre-glued side just as an iron does. PVC edgebanding is not pre-glued. This type of edgebanding that comes in different thicknesses is used with the nicer edgebanders with glue pots. However you can purchase a PVC peel and stick egdgebanding. I have not been too impressed with the quality of the adhesive used with the peel and stick, and it can also be expensive.Pre-glued PVC is available, but has a short shelf life. PVC also distorts if the machine uses hot bar technology and has a memory that the smaller machines are really not able to deal with successfully. The best results from tabletop machines are with pre-glued polyester or melamine and wood veneer edging.Don't beat yourself up - if this is the only edge banding you do, I would suggest buying plastic snap-on &#; it&#;s very durable and fast. I buy it from Charles McMurray Co. comes in 12' lengths cost less than 20 cents/foot. P400-34TAN comes in white, tan and walnutYears ago I used a hot air edgebander and melamine tape. I thought it was pretty good - until I popped for a real edgebander and started using PVC. Compared to PVC, melamine banding seemed ridiculously brittle and easy to chip. Then I discovered 1mm PVC (instead of the standard .5mm stuff) &#; wow. 1mm PVC is the bomb works very well. It is very durable and has that look of quality customers can see.I wouldn&#;t suggest spending your money on one of the tabletop edgebanders. They never saved me any time over a good vice, iron, wood block, trimmers and sanding block. The big problem is they don't trim the stuff and they require too much set-up and adjustment. Stay small or go big.I recently purchased the Freud table top edgebander and found it to be quicker than the iron. I am just starting to build boxes at home and found the quality of the pre-glued edgebanding I have used so far to be poor. The edgebander has worked great, but the melamine material does chip easily on the ends. This is not from the machine, but from handling the boards before trimming. For shelves I find the table top to be great. For box edging it is fair and for door edging it is poor. I am still trying out new methods and material. I have not tried the wood material yet.

Comment from contributor R:
I build fixtures/cabinets and have a Freud hot air edger and it is really a great way to apply all types of edgebanding (PVC, melamine, and wood). The edging that I prefer is PVC, because it is durable and suits my purpose. I have edged over 500,000 feet with it. I can get some PVC colors pre-glued but the ones I can't, the place where I buy it sends it out to get glue put on it. It is not that expensive for just your common colors. It does require different heat settings according to the climate when applying the amount of glue, or the type of edging itself. Once it is set, it works great.

Understanding the Differences: ABS vs PVC Edge Banding:

When it comes to edge banding, the choice of material is crucial. Among the many options available, two stand out: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride). Each has its own set of benefits and drawbacks that make it suitable for different applications.  We'll look into the differences between these two popular materials, focusing on their properties, installation processes, and environmental impact.

Understanding the Basics: ABS and PVC:

ABS and PVC are the most commonly used materials for edge banding, providing a durable surface to protect board edges. ABS is a plastic polymer that is more expensive than PVC but is easier to work with and more environmentally friendly. It's fully recyclable and biodegradable and shrinks at a high temperature of 99 degrees. PVC, on the other hand, is cheaper but shrinks at 70 degrees, which can cause problems. It is less environmentally friendly and less fire-resistant than ABS.

The Environmental Impact

When it comes to environmental considerations, ABS holds a slight edge. While both PVC and ABS can be recycled, ABS is considered 'greener' because it takes a shorter period to decompose in the ground and doesn't expose harmful gases when recycled by burning. PVC, while also recyclable, takes longer to decompose and can release harmful gases when burned.

Fire Resistance

Both materials have fire resistance properties, but there are key differences. PVC is resistant to fire, but in the case of fire, exposure to harmful gases is risky and unhealthy. ABS, on the other hand, is more fire-resistant. Even if there is a fire, exposure to toxic gases is limited

Featured content:
Top 3 Benefits of Concrete Floor Polishing in an Industrial ...
Anti-Static ESD Flooring Solutions
How Does Plastic Injection Molding Machine Work?
How many wastewater treatment plants are there in China?
China Long Span Metal Tile, Metal Roofs

Lituo Product Page

Durability

Durability is another critical factor when choosing between ABS and PVC. PVC is more resistant to solvents and UV lights, making it possible to use the strongest form of solvent without causing damage. ABS, while less resistant to light and strong solvents.

It is manufactured with the highest quality pigments to prevent discoloration and fading.

 

The Cost Factor

From a cost perspective, PVC has an advantage as it's cheaper than ABS and other plastic materials. ABS is the most expensive edge banding solution in the plastic segment. However, the added cost comes with benefits, such as being easier to work with and offering a more environmentally friendly solution

Processing and Installation

When it comes to processing and installation of these materials, ABS is frequently preferred. It is more convenient to process on edge banders, and the edge banding trimming knives have a longer lifespan. PVC is more difficult to process in edge banders than ABS due to its robust composition. It can, however, withstand even the most potent solvents, making cleanup easier after application.

 

Another notable distinction in the installation procedure is the usage of laser technology. ABS is ideal for laser technology due to its fire resistance and lack of toxic fumes when burned. PVC, on the other hand, cannot be used for laser or Air-tech technology because of the poisonous gas it emits when burned.

Color Strength and Size Versatility

Both PVC and ABS offer a high level of color strength, with the same technology of printing used for both materials. However, most manufacturers can produce PVC in a wider range of width and thickness than ABS, offering more size versatility. This could make PVC the only

material suitable for your project if you require a specific size that ABS cannot provide

The Final Verdict

So, which one is better: ABS or PVC? The answer isn't straightforward. It depends on your specific needs and constraints. If you prefer laser applications, ABS is your only option. If you're looking for a more cost-effective solution or need a specific size, PVC might be the best choice. Remember to consider all the factors - environmental impact, fire resistance, durability, cost, processing, and installation process - before making your decision.

In conclusion, the choice between ABS and PVC edge banding involves careful consideration of a variety of factors. Both materials have their strengths and weaknesses, and the best choice will depend on the specific needs and circumstances of your project. Whether you opt for the more expensive, environmentally friendly, and fire-resistant ABS, or the cheaper, more durable, and solvent-resistant PVC, you'll be choosing a material that offers a durable surface to protect your board edges.