Do I need a torque screwdriver set?

But they do make a difference as often the screw heads are easy to damage at higher torques, even if to begin with you are just given the job of dismantling stuff so unscrewing a tight fastener.

For many years the skill of sensibly tightening terminals was something that was learned as an apprentice, etc, so you could reliably make connections that would not undo with vibration or thermal cycling, as well as not leading to damage to the wire and/or cable clamp itself. But with the number of botched installations presenting a fire risk the industry has moved towards the use of torque tools to try and reduce dependency on such skill and to help get better control over results.

Also a torque set is quite a handy way to get a feel for what is correct for 2Nm, etc, but you can probably borrow one for such a trial.

That is much the same as garages have been for last 50+ years, most bolts/nuts are done by hand, but critical ones like cylinder head, water pump, driveshaft, etc, finished with a torque wrench.

Another factor is stuff being poorly done and often damaged on assembly is monkeys using an impact wrench. Except for some very specific tools, NEVER use a power tool on electrical terminals! Most impact drivers will, even at the lowest setting, hammer the faster home to a much higher torque that most can cope with. Typically the only ones likely to survive are going to be M8 or larger studs, etc. A moment's carelessness with my own impact driver (Milwaukee M18FID2) resulted in me shearing a M6 roofing screw when assembling cable try, so I am not joking!

Having said that, my impact driver is a most excellent tool to have (though not the cheapest) for drilling with the hex-shank bits, using the 20mm - 32mm hole saws for glands, etc, and for mechanical assembly/disassembly on larger wood screws or bolts as it really gets the job done quickly.

TL;DR Concentrate on basic hand tools first (as

The only +/- ones I have are bits for my torque screwdriver!But they do make a difference as often the screw heads are easy to damage at higher torques, even if to begin with you are just given the job of dismantling stuff so unscrewing a tight fastener.For many years the skill of sensibly tightening terminals was something that was learned as an apprentice, etc, so you could reliably make connections that would not undo with vibration or thermal cycling, as well as not leading to damage to the wire and/or cable clamp itself. But with the number of botched installations presenting a fire risk the industry has moved towards the use of torque tools to try and reduce dependency on such skill and to help get better control over results.Also a torque set is quite a handy way to get a feel for what is correct for 2Nm, etc, but you can probably borrow one for such a trial.That is much the same as garages have been for last 50+ years, most bolts/nuts are done by hand, but critical ones like cylinder head, water pump, driveshaft, etc, finished with a torque wrench.Another factor is stuff being poorly done and often damaged on assembly is monkeys using an impact wrench. Except for some very specific tools,use a power tool on electrical terminals! Most impact drivers will, even at the lowest setting, hammer the faster home to a much higher torque that most can cope with. Typically the only ones likely to survive are going to be M8 or larger studs, etc. A moment's carelessness with my own impact driver (Milwaukee M18FID2) resulted in me shearing a M6 roofing screw when assembling cable try, so I am not joking!Having said that, my impact driver is a most excellent tool to have (though not the cheapest) for drilling with the hex-shank bits, using the 20mm - 32mm hole saws for glands, etc, and for mechanical assembly/disassembly on larger wood screws or bolts as it really gets the job done quickly.TL;DR Concentrate on basic hand tools first (as @nicebutdim said), then look at some useful power tools for mechanical work and as you get to assembly CU or other stuff with high current terminals then look at a torque set.

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I have one. We use it occasionally. No hints. Just remember to have it re-calibrated every now and then just to prove to everyone that you really do care. Besides that extra $60 every year keeps the economy going and you can just about bet when it comes down to a lawsuit at least one lawyer will ask when it was last calibrated.

If you are doing devices, 15 in lbs seems terribly loose and if doing snap in CBs you will think 35-50 in lbs way to tight.

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