Steel wool for metal polishing...when to use and when not to ...

rzatch said:

None taken, not sure why there would be but anyway. It's hard to say without actually seeing the scratches.

You can find more information on our web, so please take a look.

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steelwool is not even close to being uniform in size or texture and there are many varibles that come into play it's hard to say start here. Depending if the user was aggressive when they were using it, how clean the metal was before they scrubbed it, were they grinding in dirt along with the coarsness of the steelwool, so the scratches could be of varying depth and that is going to determine your starting point.

Sometimes it's just trial and error just like correcting paint.

Your best to start with the finest paper you can and see if it removes them

, if not move down to the next grit. If I were to give you a starting point to get out the typical scratches I would say start with . You can always go corser if you need to. You'll know pretty quick if it going to cut it or not.

Hope I answered your question.[/QUOTE]

I have a tendency to post excessively at times. My thought would be to polish(correct) first, with a polish made for stainless; least aggressive method first. The lesser of two evils (as opposed to sanding).

Rix6 said:

I don't know why there would be any disrespect either, there's nothing disrespectful about asking an honest question. :dunno:

Rzatch, thanks for your quick guide to polishing up stainless. It seems like after the exhaust tips are polished up, the bronze wool from Ace Hardware mentioned by soto would be ok to use for soot removal without scratching since bronze is softer than stainless. Actually I'm surprised that steel wool scratches stainless. Stainless is quite hard. I never would have guessed that a hard grade of steel would be used for steel wool. Learn something new every day.

-Rick

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What makes you think that bronze wool would not scratch SS. We are not talking rocket science.

steelwool is not even close to being uniform in size or texture and there are many varibles that come into play it's hard to say start here., were they grinding in dirt along with the coarsness of the steelwool, so the scratches could be of varying depth and that is going to determine your starting point., if not move down to the next grit. If I were to give you a starting point to get out the typical scratches I would say start with . You can always go corser if you need to. You'll know pretty quick if it going to cut it or not.Hope I answered your question.[/QUOTE]What makes you think that bronze wool would not scratch SS. We are not talking rocket science.

There are many polishing products available in the market nowadays that can return the sparkle and shine to your metal products which may have faded, stained or become dull with time. Sometimes with metals like copper and brass, it becomes difficult to get back that mirror finish. In this article, we provide you with three easy ways to polish your metal and ensure it shines as good as new.

BY Hand One of the ways in which metal can be polished is, quite simply, by hand. To do so, first the metal must be cleaned with some soap. Ideally, a good non-abrasive liquid dish soap should do the trick. Then, rinse it well. These steps ensure that all the grime and dust on the metal has been removed before the actual polishing is done. After washing and rinsing the metal, dry it off with a towel.

Once you&#;ve made sure that it&#;s completely dry, use a cloth or a sponge, and cover the surface of the metal with the polish compound. Since polish can give off very strong fumes, it is best to execute this step in a well-ventilated area or use protective gear.

The polish should be left on for about a minute before wiping it off with a damp microfiber cloth. For heavily tarnished objects, you can wait longer &#; about three to five minutes. Finally, rinse the metal with warm water and dry it off completely.

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Using a buffing wheel

The first step remains the same as the first step of polishing by hand.

The polishing compound is applied on the surface of the buffing wheel. Not much compound is needed for the wheel to work.

The metal piece is to be held up against the buffing wheel as it turns at a speed of rates per minute. Not much pressure needs to be applied. Compound can be reapplied to the wheel as necessary.

A coat of metal wax or clear lacquer can be applied to the metal to seal it. This can be done with the buffing wheel as well.

Sandpaper Using an aluminum oxide or silicon carbide sandpaper, metal can be polished effectively. Ideally, it is best to start with 600-grit sandpaper and then then move on and up to finer sandpaper &#; up to -grit. Water should be used to cool the surface of the metal down. Of course, even if you do take precautions, it is unlikely that tarnish will not build up again on the metal. But with the above methods, bringing back the shine on the metal in your life should never be a wearisome chore again!

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