10 Questions You Should to Know about rotating tyre clamp custom

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The only other critical area of the re-install is getting the lower fork legs aligned properly. It is critical that the front wheel axle slides in and out of the lower fok legs smoothly after the lower triple clamp pinch bolts are tightened.

When you slide the fork legs into the lower triple clamp you should allow them to slide upwards until each leg bottoms out on the lower chamfer of the clamp. These chamfers are sized exactly the same on each side which places each fork leg at the proper height when the fork leg bottoms out and will not go up any farther. No need to force them, just stop when they hit the edge and rotate them into the approximate end position. Make sure the brake caliper mounts are facing bacwards.

Slide the upper fork tubes into the handlebars (low bars) and already mounted top clamp. Be careful of cable and hose routings and be sure everything is in the proper position. A very slight wedge of plastic or wood prying the pinch bolt area open slightly will help allow the fork tubes to slide through the top clamp. At this point the height the tubes are above the top clamp is not critical. Just be sure the tops of both fork tubes are above flush with the top surface of the top clamp. Tighten the top clamp pinch bolts to factory specs and then proceed with the rest of the lower clamp installation.

Now, slide the axle into position by carefully loosening the lower clamp pinch bolts and rotating the fork legs until the axle slides easily in place. A little tension on just one pinch bolt on each side of the lower clamp is sufficient to manipulate the fork legs. Be sure the forks are always bottomed out on the chamfers of the lower clamp and haven't moved downward in the clamp. Once you get the legs aligned and have just enough torque on the lower clamp pinch bolts so that the legs don't drop, apply factory torque settings to the axle pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks. Now, go back to the lower clamp pinch bolts and apply torque alternately to both bolts on each side of the clamp. When you get to factory torque specs on the lower clamp pinch bolts, loosen the pinch bolts on the lower fork legs and slide the axle out.

If you are lucky and did everything very methodically, the axle should slid in and out of both fork legs nice and smooth. The axle should be able to be moved in and out by fingers only and should not have to be forced. Sometimes there is a slight out of roundness near the end on the travel of the axle near the cross hole where you hold the axle with a screwdriver, but that will be ok. If the axle does not slide smoothly then you should try repeating the whole process and see if it gets any better.

What happens when you tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts is that a slight rotation will occur in each fork leg as more torque is applied to the clamp pinch bolts. This is why you need to have the axle in place and the axle pinch bolts tightened so that the fork legs will resist the rotation when torque is applied to the lower clamp pinch bolts. If you have trouble getting it to work out you can manipulate the fork leg rotation by preloading it in the opposite direction that it tends to rotate when tightening. The tightening of the lower clamp pinch bolts causes a rotaion of the fok leg in an inward direction. I'll go through this process in more detail if you need it, but the other method is what is recommended in the factory manuals and should work fine.

Let me know if you have any more questions

Yes, the rubbery feel is just the rubber boot you are feeling. Once everything is in place the mass of the front end will negate that resistance. It is a good idea to keep the clamp centered when tigthening the ball joint so that the boot doesn't have to stretch farther to one side than the other. Although, it should slip enough and find it's own center after a few miles of riding I would think.The only other critical area of the re-install is getting the lower fork legs aligned properly. It is critical that the front wheel axle slides in and out of the lower fok legs smoothly after the lower triple clamp pinch bolts are tightened.When you slide the fork legs into the lower triple clamp you should allow them to slide upwards until each leg bottoms out on the lower chamfer of the clamp. These chamfers are sized exactly the same on each side which places each fork leg at the proper height when the fork leg bottoms out and will not go up any farther. No need to force them, just stop when they hit the edge and rotate them into the approximate end position. Make sure the brake caliper mounts are facing bacwards.Slide the upper fork tubes into the handlebars (low bars) and already mounted top clamp. Be careful of cable and hose routings and be sure everything is in the proper position. A very slight wedge of plastic or wood prying the pinch bolt area open slightly will help allow the fork tubes to slide through the top clamp. At this point the height the tubes are above the top clamp is not critical. Just be sure the tops of both fork tubes are above flush with the top surface of the top clamp. Tighten the top clamp pinch bolts to factory specs and then proceed with the rest of the lower clamp installation.Now, slide the axle into position by carefully loosening the lower clamp pinch bolts and rotating the fork legs until the axle slides easily in place. A little tension on just one pinch bolt on each side of the lower clamp is sufficient to manipulate the fork legs. Be sure the forks are always bottomed out on the chamfers of the lower clamp and haven't moved downward in the clamp. Once you get the legs aligned and have just enough torque on the lower clamp pinch bolts so that the legs don't drop, apply factory torque settings to the axle pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks. Now, go back to the lower clamp pinch bolts and apply torque alternately to both bolts on each side of the clamp. When you get to factory torque specs on the lower clamp pinch bolts, loosen the pinch bolts on the lower fork legs and slide the axle out.If you are lucky and did everything very methodically, the axle should slid in and out of both fork legs nice and smooth. The axle should be able to be moved in and out by fingers only and should not have to be forced. Sometimes there is a slight out of roundness near the end on the travel of the axle near the cross hole where you hold the axle with a screwdriver, but that will be ok. If the axle does not slide smoothly then you should try repeating the whole process and see if it gets any better.What happens when you tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts is that a slight rotation will occur in each fork leg as more torque is applied to the clamp pinch bolts. This is why you need to have the axle in place and the axle pinch bolts tightened so that the fork legs will resist the rotation when torque is applied to the lower clamp pinch bolts. If you have trouble getting it to work out you can manipulate the fork leg rotation by preloading it in the opposite direction that it tends to rotate when tightening. The tightening of the lower clamp pinch bolts causes a rotaion of the fok leg in an inward direction. I'll go through this process in more detail if you need it, but the other method is what is recommended in the factory manuals and should work fine.Let me know if you have any more questions

__________________
Scott

'98 RS - Triple Clamps, 10mm Shortened Telelever
KTM 990 SMT, KTM 990 SDR

Last edited by motoyoyo; 04-18- at

08:04 PM

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